Gobbling up Turkey...

How cool is Turkey. It is pretty cool. It is also very different. I have never seen so many stray dogs or packs of dogs. We drove from Athens to Kavala the first night. We weren't in Turkey yet but all the talk in the campsite was based around getting passport stamps.

We had one stop on our very long drive which was at Thermopylae, the site where the Battle of 300 occured. Yay for me. Go the Spartans!!!

The next morning we were up at the crack of dawn and off again, finally leaving Greece and making our

way over the border into Turkey. We had a pretty emotional day, I guess you could say, as we spent a good few hours driving around and walking around Gallipoli and ANZAC cove. It was very humbling for the spirit to be there on a site, to see where the soldiers landed, and to see what they would have seen but with more shooting. I was also awed by how hopeless they must have felt when you see the huge cliffs and clay mountains that would have been so easily defended. We went to some memorials as well as some graves and I took some photos but the message on this one really got me going. I had to choke back a few sobs.
At one of the sites where they have a dedication to the Turkish and New Zealand soldiers they even had some of the trenches left so that you could see and climb into them.

 After visiting Gallipoli we headed to the campsite which was right on the beach front. It was lovely but it was also a haven for bugs. Ewww.
The next mornin though, we were up and moving yet again, heading off for a full day. Our first stop was actually in the wrong direction to where our final destination was going to be. We went to Troy.
I was super excited about going to Troy and finally seeing the multiple ruins, to see Troy and to see The Troy from all of the stories.
They had a gigantic wooden horse outside, a replica of course. Our guide was amazing and he had even written academic books on it, so his knowledge was great and his sense of humour dry and funny.
From Troy we headed back the way we came and in the late evening arrived into Istanbul (what was once known as Constantinople. Woohoo!
We had two hotel nights in Istanbul so we made the most of being central by heading out to a bar for a drink. I wasn't feeling crash hot and was tired so I had a drink then crashed into bed. On the upside, I was chatted up by the restaurant manager who offered 100 camels and 1000 chickens for me. I am worth quite a lot. Hahaha. Will, Marica's partner, told me I should hold out for 500 camels.
Istanbul is a very vibrant city but I was sure to cover up my body as much as humanly possible without dying of heat so that I didn't get leered at by the Turkish men.

Blue Mosque

We had a walking tour in the morning and we went into the Blue Mosque. Each tile in there is hand painted. I couldn't believe the details involved. Stunning.
We also went to the Spice Markets and the Turkish baths to book in a treatment. I spent 199 Lira ($123
NZD) and got a sauna and scrub, a full body massage, a facial, a manicure and a pedicure. Not a bad
deal! We also went to a Turkish rug seller where they tried to see us hand made rugs for outrageous money. The rugs were beautiful and it is true they are an heirloom piece but really, what backpacker young person has that kind of money. The smallest rug was table mat sized and cost 220 US dollars. They were going to offer all their rugs for 50% off but that is still a lot for a little. All the while they were rolling out rugs we were busy drinking Turkish tea which is a the most diving apple tea you will ever taste. Mmmmmm. Our final stop was the Grand Bazaar.
I have never seen so many shops together. Sadly, Cherie, no goats. There were heaps of watches and jewellery shops but no goat shops.
After the markets I headed back to the Turkish bath house. It was an experience.
We were given a towel and a pair of disposable knickers and stripped down. We then headed down to the steam room. Women were separate from men so there was no need to be shy and I think it is fair to say I have never been known to be shy about baring it all so when we headed into the sauna room, I whipped my towel off and lay down on the marble slabs bare but for a pair of knickers.
The room was very beautiful. It was a domed room with a octagonal low set marble step in the middle for everyone to lie on. Around the outside was water for rinsing off. Also around the outside were some rather large Turkish women whose job it was to scrub us down. Bring. It. On.
I lay there for around 40 minutes, sweating out all the dirt on my skin and then was called over to one of the women who literally scrubbed me down, front and back, head to toe, to remove dead skin and dirt. She then soaped me up and washed and then I was rinsed off and my hair washed.
Next was the massage. Holy crap, it certainly was a massage! I have never had someone's elbow in my back but now I have. I loved every moment, even the moment when my hands curled into fists to stop myself from moving away from the pummelling. I had a mud mask put on and then, finally, my finger and toes were painted prettily.
After the bath I just wanted to sleep. It took about 3 hours all together but I imagine it would be very easy to stay there longer. Obviously there are no photos as it was naked time in the bath house.
That night we all headed out for a Turkish dinner where we watched belly dancing and ate Turkish food. Watching the dancers has given me a new desire to learn. I want to be able to vibrate my stomach the way they do. It is beyond imagination what they can do with their bodies. Cherie, you will have to come with me. You can already roll your stomach! You must teach me how.
Some people headed out after the dinner but I crashed out. I was feeling really tired and wanted to enjoy my night in a hotel after 25 days of camping.

 

Going Greek

I can’t believe how much I have to catch up on! It has been a whirlwind that past week and I have barely had time to think on what I have seen and done let alone write about it.

Firstly, three days on Corfu were amazing and left me feeling rejuvenated to continue on the trip with more. Most of the time in Corfu included swimming on the pebbled beach, wincing at having to walk on said pebbles, drinking cocktails and indulging in sailing.

On our first day we arrived very early so we were able to chill out on the beach. Some people did watersports but I was not one of them. I had no desire to swim amongst the sand and rocks or in the deep water. I sort of paddled about. On the second day we had a boat trip. It started at 10am and finished up at 5.30pm. The whole day we were out on the water, moving from cove to cove to swim and chill out in the sun. Lunch was on the boat. It was great fun and George, whose boat it was, was a very cheeky and inappropriate 62 year old Greek man. The scenery around the islands was fantastic and the waters were a brilliant blue colour. I am proud to say that I managed to jump off the boat at the first stop and swam around for a bit without panicking. It was only when I had to get back on the boat and the boat had shifted into rocky waters that I struggled to get back to the ladder. I had to keep repeating to myself that they were only shadows so that I could swim over one long enough to get on the boat without panicking in the water.

The rest of the day I stayed on the boat because it was too close to the reefs for me to be comfortable. However, I still had a great time and managed to get some great sun burn for my troubles. I had put sunblock on but I really am not sure if it actually works.

That evening we had a Greek dinner. We all got dressed up and headed out to a restaurant where we ate Greek food, danced Greek dances and I even got picked to take part in the plate smashing at the end. Yay! There was a dancer who, as he danced, men with lighter fuel and made a circle of flames around him on the tiled floor. It was great. I also took part in the potato dance. Me and Felicity had to put a potato between our foreheads and follow instructions. We had to have our hands behind our backs while we did it. Heaps of fun.

The third day on Corfu was a free day so I slept in, went for a walk to the touristy shops then chilled out on the beach. In the afternoon I met up with a few of the others and we sat on the beach front drinking cocktails and letting the world pass by. 

It was an early wake up in the morning and it was not the best of calls either. The heavens opened as we were putting our tents down and we were hurridly trying to fold, pack and shove a tent into a bag. By the time we were done we were soaked through to the bone.

It was a long day but we finally arrived at our next stop, one which I have been super excited about - Athens.

The campsite was a bit of a joke. They had stuck us right near the entrance, right by a main road and right where the cars decide to drag race in the middle of the night. It was very loud but I didn't care because I was finally here, in the country that I have studied for years and years and years about to see the Parthenon and the temples of Zeus. 

Parthenon

Our first stop the next morning was to do a drive about the city with a tour guide. It was a great way to see the city and get an interesting history on the place - not the ancient history but the more modern history and the recent recession issues. I was really amazed at the amount of empty houses and buildings. They had simply been abandoned and sat there unused right in the centre of the city. After the bus about town we headed up to the Parthenon. I was so excited I had butterflies as we climbed the stairs and I finally got my first proper look. I was like a kid in a candy shop - I did not know where to look first. We were supposed to meet back at the bus at 12 but I told Claire, the manager, that I would not be joining them. I knew before we even walked up the hill that I would want to spend more time there.

The walk up to the Parthenon was up the original marble stairs that the Greeks would have once climbed in ancient times. I got to walk between great sets of columns that dominated the area and then up the temple of Athena herself, passing by the temple of Nike. I was in my element.

From up there I could see out across Athens and at the bottom of the Acropolis was the Theatre of Dionysus where Aristophanes' plays were once performed. I actually got to walk down there and sit in the theatre too. I was so happy to be there I actually had a moment where I cried a few tears just because I was finally here.

From there I left the ancient site and pootled around the little markets in the agora, the old part of the city, and struck up a conversation with one of the shop owners who makes replicas of the ancient vases. If I had the money and the space I would have gotten one. She showed me how she paints and scratches out the designs. It was really cool. I also found my comedy and tragedy masks. Yay! Now I just need to not break them in my backpack.

I next went to the site of the temple of Zeus where there are only a few columns still standing, though still really impressive. The rest of my afternoon I spent walking the shopping streets. There was a bit of unrest in Athens so there were quite a few police on the streets. The other thing there was a lot of was gypsy children who basically rob, beg and steal. It was fascinating to watch and it made me sad as well to think where their parents are and if there parents are the ones dictating their actions.

The last night in Athens was the night that we said goodbye to three of our travellers, Tesh, Kirsty and Maddie and welcomed 14 new travellers. Suddenly the bus is looking very crowded.

I am looking forward to meeting some new people but at the same time I am a bit tired and don't really want to be social. Sigh.

All things Ancient, including the Mafia

For the last three days I have been chilling out on the beach in Corfu and I have loved every moment of it. I was in desperate need of some R 'n' R, so going to Corfu was perfect for me as well as many of the others on the tour. Quite a few people are starting to get sick from the Contiki cough and I have been struggling for the last few days but now I feel great. It might also help that I have been drinking cocktails today. I feel pretty damned fantastic right now.

Going back a bit though... From Florence, where I purchased an awesome leather belt, we headed off to Rome. I love Rome. I really do. It is one of those places where the buildings never get old (so to speak). This time I finally got to the Roman Forum too. I cannot express how amazing the forum is and I got to walk

down the Via Sacra, which I have heard so much about but never visited before. I also got to finally see the remains of the ruins of the Temple of Vesta and the Temple of Romulus. The city ruins are simply stunning and to have seen it in its heyday would have been awe-inspiring, I imagine, given the scale of the buildings.
I revisited the Pantheon and the Trevi fountain, the Colosseum and the circus maximus, and I walked the streets a fair amount. The highlight was the forum though. Now, having been three times, I finally feel like I have seen Rome and if I was to go back it would be for the forum alone. There is just so much to see that you need to spend a lot more time there than I really had.
Also, when I visited the Colosseum, I had no idea that there was a museum inside, so spent a wee bit of time there, enjoying the sculptures. There was even this ginormous hand and head that had once been part of a statue that stood outside the building. I didn't even know that.
I did, however, have to cringe at some of the stories that our tour manager told of Rome that were wrong. Being an ancient history teacher does mean that I sometimes die a little inside when the stories are mangled.

From Rome we headed down to the Isle of Capri for the day. We left Rome at the crack of dawn. It wouldn't be so bad except for having to put down the tents. It is a pain in the arse.

We ended up missing our original sailing time due to the traffic so we didn't get to the Isle of Capri until a little before 2pm and we had to sail back at 5.50pm. The crossing wasn't too bad from Napoli to Capri, but I could certainly tell we were in Mafia territory. The buildings were so much less than the towns before and the people were poorer in looks and shops. We left that and entered another world entirely on Capri.
Marica, Will and I had all opted out of the optional boat cruise around the island, so we had a bit of lunch and caught the funiculare up to the town of Capri, half way up the hill.
The sights from the top are phenomenal. The seas were a rich blue, the skies clear and the bay spread out with boats.
Up on Capri it is very expensive. The shops are all designer, with big names and famous people coming here to shop and eat. I saw a pair of sandals and thought, I could really do with a new pair - picked them up and then quickly put them down - 160 euros for literally two straps and a bit of sparkle. No thanks. My6 6 pound jandals will continue to prove themselves instead.
We walked around the narrow streets, jumping aside each time there was a little motorised 4-wheeler that runs of electric. It was actually quite nice as it was quiet and clean. No beggars on those streets.
We left the Isle of Capri at around 6pm and travelled back to the mainland. This time we landed in Sorrento.
I have never seen anything quite like it. The  port is at the bottom of a very steep cliff which acts are a natural barrier against invaders. When we got off the boat we actually had to zigzag our way up the cliff face via a narrow set of steps. Amazing. Loved it. Calves were burning by the time I reached the top.

Our next stop on our way out of Italy was to Pompeii. We once more entered Mafia territory. It was a little bit annoying - actually, it was a lot annoying. I had booked myself on the tour of Pompeii because I was worried that I wouldn't be able to get in with enough time if I had to line up myself. So I paid the extra 9 euro, on top of the ticket of 11 euros to do the tour. The guide was okay but when I asked if we would go to the Villa of Mysteries I was told no. I was told that I could make the 20 minute run down to the site myself if I wanted to. I would have if we hadn't been led to believe that after the tour we were to have lunch and then we were leaving. Tour ended up finishing at 10.30am. So I left the site with the rest of the group only to find out we have another hour and a half here and that we should all sit down and eat at this one particular restaurant. The place happens to be run by the mafia and Contiki have a deal with them. They send us to buy food there and they don't get beaten up - supposedly.
For me it was way too early to eat so I asked if I could go back inside the site. No. Apparently once you are out you are out. Grrrrrr. Another grrrrr is that they lied to us about the supermarket. We had asked if there was somewhere to buy food and was told there was no where. Turns out it was just down the road but the Mafia don't like us to take our custom elsewhere. Boo efffing hoo! We all went down and got food.

Pompeii itself however is amazing. I really did enjoy it and although I am still bitter about not having enough time due to Contiki-Mafia politics I was amazed at how much is there. I loved that I finally got to walk down the streets and to see the brothel houses that I had read about and seen pictures of. I loved that it was there without glamour or casings. You could see it as it was. I got to see the site where the gladiators trained before being shipped off to Rome and where the sailors would go after months at sea. Funnily enough the red light district of the day
didn't have any written signs pointing you towards it. Instead it just had huge stone penises sticking out of the walls of etched onto the ground pointing you in the right direction, so to speak.
The city also had some amazing buildings that were pretty much standing and they had a bunch of plaster-cast remains of people who had been caught in the eruption. They even have one of a pregnant woman. It is very sad but it is amazing that they are so well preserved.

After Pompeii we drove across Italy to catch an overnight ferry to Greece.
I have never, ever, been so grateful for an upgrade to a cabin on a boat in my life. Seriously. There were people, with bad, bad hygiene and serious problems staring. They just couldn't help themselves it would appear. I told Marissa and Felicity, who I was rooming with, that I wouldn't open the door if they knocked and didn't name themselves. There were some bad types on board and I didn't want myself or them to be caught.
The ferry arrived in to Greece at 4 am and then we transferred to another ferry at 6am before finally arriving at Corfu for three days of RnR.

Directions: Up, Down, Across, Down, Angle, Down

It has been days since I last blogged but in fairness, I haven’t been anywhere near free wifi which is ridiculous. In this day and age, where EVERYWHERE has free wifi in public places the camp sites we have stayed at charge ridiculous amounts. Sure, 2 euros for 24 hours, but I am not paying 3 euros for an hour or 8 for 24 hours of which I will only use it for a small amount of time. Still, at least I am not as bad as the young ones. They literally shout and carry on when they don’t have free wifi. Even worse, they won’t sit in a restaurant without it. That is sad.

Barcelona was a good day and night out. I am loving just taking my time pootling around. So my day out in

Barcelona consisted of me wandering off. I went to Sagrada Familia. It was the most amazing and different looking interior that I have ever seen. It was stunning. Guadi who designed bits of it was amazing in his idea of what the interior and exterior of the church should look like. He used a lot of natural things, like tree trunks and leaves and and animals then he created artistic versions of them. It might possibly be my favourite church interior. The outside is a hodge-podge of this and that, but the inside is indescribable.

After visiting the church, I split up from the two girls I was with and made my way down to La Rambla to check out the sites. It is a long street. Really long. I can’t believe how long it takes to walk it. Along the way, I would cut off down side streets to explore those shops. I spent a few hours hunting down a pair of jean shorts because it is too damn hot here.

In the afternoon I met up with the group and we headed back to the camp for a rest. My feet have never ached so much as they do while here walking everywhere.

That night, despite having walked all day, we all got changed on the bus into dressier clothes and went out for a meal. It was a ginormous meal, consisting of 5 tapas starters of mussels, whitebait, prawns, potato, tuna bake things, squid rings - there was a lot of seafood. As well, there was as much Sangria as we could drink. So we drank and drank and drank. Then came the main, by which point, I actually couldn't eat. I had a few mouthfulls of the bolognaise I had ordered, then pushed it around the plate.

From there we headed out to the bar to celebrate on the guys birthdays. We stayed there till about 1.30am then went to a bar called Opium which had a 30 euro door charge but we got in for free thanks to Kesha, our cook, sweet talking the bouncers. It was a fun night. I ended up making out with a complete stranger for most of the time there on the dance floor. He was pretty gorgeous and, Cherie and Stoy, you will be so proud of me, he was as black as the blackest night. Not exactly my type but he knew what he was about and he kissed like a legend. I went back to the camp ground at around 3am. We were back up at 6am, tents down, breakfast, then on the coach. I think I was still a bit drunk when I woke up. 3 hours wasn't enough but I slept on the bus.

From Barcelona we headed back into the France. We stayed in a camp ground in Antibes and bused into Nice. Before heading into Nice we went to Fragonards, the perfumery. Sigh. I have been there three times now and I am no closer to buying their overprice perfume than I was the last time.

 Nice is, of course, stunning, and wouldn’t be a bad place to stay if I had a few million to throw around on an

apartment on the beach. Not having those things, I had to settle for mooching around and window shopping at the over-price stores before making a beeline for the more manageable side streets. I mean really, who is going to want to pay 6900 euro for a dress? It must be nice to have that sort of money.

In Nice, Katie, Emma and I went for a walk up the hill that stands looking out over the water. It used to be a look out point with a castle, and now there is just a bunch of ruins, cafes and look out points.It was a tame walk up the steps but the heat is a killer here and by the time I got to the top I had soaked my singlet with sweat. It is really difficult in that respect because the others complain when they get sweaty pits. Boohoo for them. Not.

At the top of the look out point is the most stunning vistas of the beaches and city of Nice. There is also a waterfall up there. It helped to relieve some of the heat we were feeling with the mist hitting us. I could hae stood there for hours. The seas were such a rich, inviting blue that I wished I had brought my togs. On an interesting note, the French don’t really have the whole togs- undies rule. If you can see the sea, you are wearing togs. The girls who walked back from the beach to the bus stop in their bikinis got a few funny looks they said.

Katie, Emma and I also went out for some lunch. We wanted a pizza but when we sat down and tried to order one pizza between the three of us we were told we couldn't stay unless we ordered a second meal. We left. It was so rude. We ended up finding a square where we could sit and eat a much cheaper meal.

That night we went out to Monoco and Monte Carlo Casino. I lost 10 Euros and that was all I was willing to spend. I am trying to behave with spending. That is not to say I’m not doing things but that I am not playing loose with cash. It is only day 12 of 46. I have a long way to go.

The next morning we headed from Nice to Venice. We made a brief stop at Verona on the way to see Juliet’s balcony and stretch our legs before we went down Venice to set up camp amidst the hundreds of thousands of mosquitos.

The next morning we headed out into Venice. Again, I have been before and I always promised myself that if I ever went back I would go lose myself in the city streets and canals. So my day consisted of chilling out in St Marks square with the pigeons, then getting lost, ending up back in St Marks and doing a sketch, then getting lost again. It was great and I now feel like I have had a proper time in Venice and no longer need to return there.

I don’t think I have walked this much in a long, long time, if ever, and I have been doing it every day in sandals as it is just too hot to wear my tramping boots.

Florence was my next stop. We had a coach drive to Florence, stopping off at Pisa. It was a nice to see the tower again. It was such a scorching hot day that people were sitting in and following the shadow the tower created. We took some great photos and then headed on down to Florence.

That night, some of the group went out to the Space Electronic disco. I have been there and done that and really had no desire to step in there again.

The next day though, we headed into Florence and had a walking tour first up as well as a leather

demonstration. I was excited to be in Florence because I have been holding out for the last three months in buying a decent leather belt when I knew I was going to be in the leather capital.

London to Paris to Barcelona

'ello 'ello this is nighthawk calling and I will say this only once. I have been chilling out in Paris for the past three days and after spending the last two days driving across France I am now in Barcelona camp grounds. It is 9.30pm and it is still very hot and humid. It is going to be a hot day tomorrow me thinks.
Before all of this I was in London, so I should probably give a run down on those days first.
For once I really enjoyed London. I think a large part of that was I was staying in Kent with Ruth which made it more enjoyable as I knew someone. I got to spend a lot more time with her and really got to know her and Lee. They were very warm and welcoming and I loved the time I had there.
During the days I was out in London city, being very local. I felt pretty local when I was able to navigate the bus systems and train systems both with and without a backpack. Woohoo. I spent quite a bit of time people watching. For once I didn't feel like a tourist so I was really able to enjoy what I was looking at as opposed to spending my days behind a camera, barely having time to look. It was quite funny watching tourists carrying on. I hope I don't look like that! I spent some time at St James' park, chilling out with the Queen who was in her palace for once. Usually when I go the flag is half mast.
I was amazed at how pretty Big Ben is. I usually spend a lot of time cringing over the amount of people but

that is usually because I am trying to take photos and look after my stuff.
I also spent some time hanging out in Trafalgar square. I went to the National art gallery and saw some amazing art, not to mention, making the most of the air conditioning. There was a giant blue rooster outside but in my head it is referred to at the Giant Blue Cock. Everyone loves giant blue cocks. Hahahaha.
London is still in heat wave mode. Whew! It was hot while I was there and the tube stations were horrifying. I literally had to change my shirt at the end of the day as it was soaked through.
My favourite part of London was at the point where I was so knackered that I stopped, I had to stop I was in pain, my poor feet, and sat on the steps under the Millenium bridge and listened to three celloists playing everything from Game of Thrones to Ave Maria. It was beautiful. I spent about an hour there just listening.

My last day in London was spent out at Canterbury Cathedral with Ruth. It was a great day out and the
cathedral is stunning. I love it there and would like to go back to explore the Canterbury Tales exhibitions and the like. It is a lot like York in looks with some narrow streets and wonky buildings.
There is a lot to see there and it was quiet enough that the streets, at least in the morning, were peaceful.

That night, I met up with the Contiki people. My first impressions was they were young, but now, having met them for the last four days, they are pretty chilled out. There are some over-sharers. I have never ever wanted to know some things about people that I now know. Sigh. Those memories you can't undo. Mostly, though, they are a down to earth bunch.

Paris was lovely. Again, I really got to look at the city this time because I had done a lot of the stuff. We

went out for dinner and I had duck. I really like it. It was duck a la orange. Mmmmm. After dinner, while everyone was out at the cabaret show, me and three others grabbed a metroline and headed down to Eiffle tower to watch it sparkle. We walked along the park, ignoring the gypsys trying to sell you booze or random crap. There were loads of people there, sitting and enjoying. We walked under the tower and out the other side and up to Trocadero which is the site where Hitler once famously stood and looked out of the Eiffle tower, surveying his lands he had conquered.

The next morning, we headed out into the city. I had a Nigel-No-Mates day as no one wanted to go to the Louvre first. So I headed out and saw the Venus d'Milo, which was great. I actually took a few photos but then I grabbed out my sketch book and did a drawing. By the end I had a couple of Japanese tourists taking photos of my picture and me. It was weird to look up and see them standing over me. I also saw the Mona Lisa from far, far away. There was no way I was getting closer than I was. It was crazy busy.

I next went to Pere Lachaise which is this very old Parisian cemetary. There are some famous people like Chopin and Oscar Wilde buried there. It was a very peaceful place with the trees turning to autumn and the orange leaves crackling on the ground, but I imagine once it gets dark it would be a very creepy place.
I did have to laugh when I saw this, though. Can you tell which part of this tomb was touched the most?

Camping has been fun so far. I am still struggling to sleep in a tent but I will get there. But now, I am off for a shower and then bed. Tomorrow is a full day in Barcelona. Woohoo.